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November 18, 2019 | INDONESIAN CUISINE, Yogyakarta


Earlier this year, we went to Jogjakarta for a trip with a few foodie friends. We wanted to eat the best Jogja has to offer and sample some of the specialty coffeeshops there. I’ll split the review by places where we eat and drink in Jogja.

Eat

JEEVA Specialty Coffee & Modern Indonesian Cuisine is our first stop in Jogja. I picked this place for lunch because Jeeva is a specialty coffee shop that also serves Indonesian food, so the kids can enjoy the food while we eat and drink coffee. The place is quite instagrammable, which is an important point for many visitors nowadays, right? Jeeva’s menu is surprisingly extensive and I am doubly surprised to find the Batak dish of “Arsik” in the menu. While the taste ended up not as authentic as in North Sumatra, but their version of arsik ikan dori was refreshing and quite good. Other dishes we ordered, including gado-gado, pasta/noodles, and steak, were also good.

Jeeva Yogyakarta
Specialty Coffee & Modern Indonesian Cuisine
VIEW MAP
Jl. Suhartono No.2, Kotabaru
Yogyakarta, 55224
Phone: (0274) 5015951
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 10AM-11PM

After lunch we stopped by Mazaraat Artisan Cheese but didn’t buy anything because we don’t want to worry about refrigeration for the next few days. After that, we headed to Bantul to check out the legendary Bakmi Jawa Mbah Mo. We arrived early at around 5PM and they have just opened. Also, we were there the week after a huge national holiday so things have calmed down considerably and we won’t have to wait long for our dish to be served. We ordered their bakmi godog 22K and bakmi goreng 22K to sample. All orders were cooked one order at a time with a charcoal stove, making the process excruatingly slow on busy days. The noodle were cooked somewhat past the al dente point, perfect for this kind of dish, and served with slightly thick pale savoury soup. No kecap manis was used, so it’ll taste a bit plain at first but you’ll soon taste the ingredients’ freshness. There’s a bowl of bird’s eye chili to add to your preference. Overall, I think this simple and humble dish is truly worth the journey.

Bakmi Jawa Mbah Mo
VIEW MAP
Jl. Parangtritis
Bantul, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55715
Phone: (0274) 418676
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 5PM-11PM

Jogjakarta is popular as a town of gudeg (Javanese traditional dishes made from young jackfruit cooked with spices, palm sugar, and coconut milk for several hours). There are a huge number of gudeg sellers in the city, from the famous Gudeg Yu Djum to the gudeg sellers commonly found on the street every morning. Most gudeg tasted sweet, so I prefer to go to my favorite Gudeg Pawon that tasted more savory than sweet. Gudeg Pawon used to be called “gudeg tengah malam” as they only open late at night on 11PM, but in recent years they have already opened around 8:30PM. You still need to queue in their hot traditional kitchen to get your plate though. As we queued, we noticed that they cooked the rice in the old way, steaming the rice in a cone-shaped woven bamboo called aseupan on top of a cylindrical copper/aluminium pot heated by woodfire. The result is the best rice I have ever eaten. Warm rice, not too dry and not too wet, topped with savory gudeg and spicy sambel krecek. Although the place was packed and we have to eat while sitting cross-legged on a bamboo mat in front of the house, the experience was so worth it.

RM. Gudeg Pawon
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Jalan Janturan UH/IV No.36,
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55164
Phone: 9:30PM-12AM

Besides gudeg, Sate Klathak Pak Pong is another must try place while in Jogjakarta. Originally just a small street food seller, they are now expanding to a bigger place with better seating. They serve mutton satay using bicycle spokes as skewers. The satays are roasted with minimal spice and placed on top of a plate with some mutton broth in the plate. A portion of sate klatak only consists of 2 skewers, but the meat was cut to a larger size than the usual sate kambing vendors and it was tender, juicy, and savoury.

Sate Klathak Pak Pong
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Jl. Sultan Agung No.18
Bantul, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55791
Phone: 0811-2645-251
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 9AM-11:30PM

Not far from Sate Klatak Pak Pong, there’s Sambel Welut Pak Sabar which is also worth a visit. They served deep-fried swamp eel & snake head fish with a special sambel welut (spicy sambal mesh together with eel) which tasted very good with a portion of warm rice and steamed green vegetable.

Sambel Welut Pak Sabar
VIEW MAP
Bantul
Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55191
Phone: (0274) 4285368
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 10AM-10PM

Another popular gudeg seller in Jogjakarta is Gudeg Sagan, I quite like this one as it is not too sweet. Actually they have already opened a branch in Jakarta last year, but the price is much higher in Jakarta than in Jogja.

Gudeg Sagan
VIEW MAP
Jl. Prof Dr. Herman Yohanes No. 53
Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55223
Phone: 0851-0044-3035
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 9AM-12AM

Bakmi Jawa Pak Geno is number one on the list of places to visit while in Jogjakarta. Located inside Pasar Prawirotaman, we arrived as early as we could around 5PM when they have just opened so we don’t have to wait long for a bowl of hot mie godog cooked and seasoned perfectly. I liked the noodle so much that we ate here two nights in a row.

Bakmi Jawa Pak Geno
VIEW MAP
Pasar Prawirotaman
Jl. Parangtritis,
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55153
Phone:0813-9297-6555
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 6PM-12AM

There’s an enviromentally friendly eatery called Warung Bumi located in Bumi Langit Institute at Imogiri, Bantul. We tried their special mie lethek (a Jogjakarta regional noodle made from tapioca & cassava flour) and many other dishes cooked from ingredients sourced from their own garden or around the area.

Warung Bumi
VIEW MAP
Bumi Langit Institute
Jl. Imogiri Mangunan Km. 3
Bantul, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55782
Phone: 0896-6011-1730
Opening Hours: Tues-Sun 9AM-4PM

Since we’re staying at Prawirotaman area, we came across ViaVia while strolling around the area. We went here for breakfast and ordered a smoothie bowl and green egg and bread. It was good as we sometimes needed a break from gudeg or mie jawa diet.

ViaVia
VIEW MAP
Prawirotaman street No.30
Yogyakarta 55153
Phone: (0274) 386557
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 7:30AM-11PM

Lotek & Gado-Gado Colombo Bu Bagyo is actually recommended by a friendly barista at Tekoff Coffee, which is located just a stone throw away from their coffeeshop. Lotek is actually an Indonesian vegetable salad with peanut sauce dressing from West Java, but we were intrigued because of the enthusiastic recommendation. It is located in a small house that has been converted into a warung. We placed and paid for our order first, then wait for our name to be called. It’s not quite an open kitchen, but you can watch how they prepare their lotek dan gado-gado on a large traditional stone mortar.

Lotek & Gado-gado Bu Bagyo Sagan
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Jl. Sagan Tim.
Kota Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55223
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 9AM-4PM

We came across Parsley Bakery & Resto while searching for a place to cool down & after a long walk around Kaliurang street. It’s a casual family restaurant that serves western food such as pizza, steak or pasta. We’re honestly surprised to find that the roast chicken and nicoise salad we ordered were actually good.

Parsley Bakery & Resto Jakal
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Jl. Kaliurang No.KM.5
Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55281
Phone: (0274) 520043
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 6:30AM-9:30PM

Our last meal in Jogja was at Art Kitchen Resto. It’s a open space farm to table dining space on the ground floor of Greenhost Boutique Hotel. We ordered Imogiri lamb steak and tempe steak to sample. Both were good, but the sauce tasted too sweet for my palate.

Art Kitchen Resto
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Greenhost Boutique Hotel Prawirotaman
Jl. Prawirotaman 2 No.629
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55153
Phone:(0274) 389777
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 6AM-11PM

Drink

We really like coffee, so we spent a day in Jogja just to roam around to find great coffee. As Jogja coffee scene is also growing rapidly, we visited several like Ruang Seduh Jogja, a well known branch from Jakarta, the small place always provide good coffee and the barista there is also very friendly and will guide you if you want to learn how to brew your own coffee.

Ruang Seduh Jogja
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Prawirotaman street No.I/16
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55143
Phone: 0856-1871-125
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 8AM-10PM

After that we took a cab to Hayati Specialty Coffee. It’s a specialty coffee shop that roasts their own coffee. We tried their Weninggalih – West Java brewed with V60. It was good, the place is also nicely designed and has a spacious backyard to take cool instagrammable shots.

Hayati | Specialty Coffee
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Jl. Demangan Baru No.7
Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55281
Phone: 0831-1676-9363
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 8AM-12PM

From Hayati, we moved to No. 27 Coffee & Eatery that is housed in a beautiful red brick house in Demangan. We had a lunch of their fried rice plus a cup of their Japanese iced brew coffee to cool off in the hot day.


VIEW MAP
Jl. Demangan Baru No.14,
Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55281
Phone: 0813-1086-0354
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 8AM-11PM

Our next destination is Tekoff Coffee in Sagan area, which apparently is a very nice spot to work & study for students in Jogja. We sampled a brew from THF (Two Hands Full) Bandung & the barista is also very friendly and provided us with many places to try the best food from the perspective of Jogjakartans.

Tekoff Coffee and Tea
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Jl. Sagan Tim.
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55223
Phone: 0817-5414-191
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 8AM-8PM

Found this tiny spot called Kiosk Coffee near Pasar Prawirotaman. They serve manual brew coffee using beans from various Indonesian regions. It was nice, the coffee was good although not what I usually preferred, but what I like the most is the barista/owner’s hospitality.

Kiosk Coffee Shop
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Jl. Parangtritis No.73
Yogyakarta, Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta 55143

Night time in Jogjakarta often called for a bowl of a warm wedang ronde (Indonesian tradional rice ball dessert served in sweet and warm ginger soup), our search led us to Wedang Ronde Mbah Payem in Kauman area. It’s a small push cart managed by a very old Mbah Payem herself. We felt pretty sad seeing a woman this old still have to work this late at night, plus the price for a bowl of wedang is ridiculously cheap.

Wedang Ronde Mbah Payem
VIEW MAP Jl. Kauman, Ngupasan
Yogyakarta 55132
Opening hours: Mon-Sun 7:30PM – 2AM

Aside from Jogjakarta, we also spent half a day travelling to visit Ambarawa Railway Museum and on our way there, we stopped by the popular Kopi Klotok in Magelang for lunch. Besides serving traditional brewed coffee from Desa Klotok, they also serve a buffett-style Javanese cuisine. There are a lot of dishes to choose from and they also have nasi liwet with garang asem. After lunch, we enjoyed our coffee and tea with a plate of tempe mendoan. Kopi Klotok also has a branch in Jogja which we heard is a very popular instagram spot.

Kopi Klotok Cangkringan
VIEW MAP Jalan Raya Magelang – Secang KM. 11,
Magelang, Central Java 56195
Phone: (0293) 3218821
Opening hour: 6:30AM – 10PM

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